Lilian Hiw, of Lilian’s Kitchen, gives the lowdown on the Mid Autumn Festival and the magical story behind mooncakes
Also known as the Mid-Autumn Festival, the Mooncake Festival is celebrated across east and southeast Asia.
It falls on the 15th day of the 8th lunar month, when the moon is at its fullest and glows brightest.
This year it’s on October 6. Families and friends gather, lanterns are lit, mooncakes are shared and hot tea flows as we sit together to admire the moon, honour ancestors, share stories and give thanks.
The children roam the streets in clusters, each carrying a paper lantern tied to a stick.
The lanterns come in all shapes and colours, each lit by a single candle. I fondly remember those nights from my childhood, trying to light the candle in the wind - cupping the flame with our hands, huddling close together to shield it with our bodies, giggling as we tried not to set the lanterns alight. The air was filled with laughter, the scent of wax and smoke, and the excitement of keeping the candles alight without setting fire to the paper lanterns.
For the adults, it was a moment of stillness in a busy world. A chance to look up, and remember. And perhaps, to whisper to the moon. . .
Chang’e and her jade rabbit
Long ago, in the time of myth and magic, Emperor Hou Yi, who was much feared and power-hungry, was gifted the elixir of immortality. He planned to consume it and rule forever, plunging the country into tyranny. His wife, Chang’e, saw the danger. She knew that if Hou Yi became immortal, his cruelty would never end. So, in a moment of quiet defiance and heartbreaking courage, she stole the elixir and drank it herself - to protect humanity.
The potion lifted her from the earth and carried her to the moon, where she now lives in solitude, watching over the earth with quiet grace. Her flight became an act of resistance, and the Mid-Autumn Festival a tribute to her bravery. On the night of the festival, some say that you can see the silhouette of Chang’e, the moon goddess, accompanied by the jade rabbit - a gentle, mystical companion said to live with her on the moon.
What a beautiful image: a goddess and her rabbit, watching over mooncake feasts and lantern-lit reunions below.
What are mooncakes?
Mooncakes are made by wrapping a sweet and rich filling, such as lotus seed paste, red bean paste, or mixed nuts, inside a thin layer of dough made from golden syrup, lye water, flour and oil (traditionally lard was used). Each filling has its own meaning: lotus seed paste for purity, salted egg yolk represents the moon, red bean for warmth, and modern flavours give a nod to playful reinterpretation.
The fillings are shaped into balls and set aside. The dough is rolled out thinly and gently wrapped around each ball of filling. This is pushed into a patterned mooncake ‘mould’ to create its distinctive design, then turned out of the mould. Once shaped, the mooncakes are baked in two stages. First, they are baked to set their shape. Then, they are brushed with a mixture of egg yolk and water and baked a second time to achieve that glossy, golden finish. After baking, the mooncakes are left to rest for a day or two to allow the oils to redistribute and the skin to soften, a process known as ‘returning oil’. This gives mooncakes their tender texture and deep flavour.
Types of mooncake
The classic Cantonese-style mooncake is filled with lotus seed paste. You can also buy them with a single or double duck egg yolk for extra richness. Teochew and Suzhou mooncakes both feature light, crispy flaky pastry, and the Suzhou mooncakes are usually savoury, filled with minced pork or ham.
My favourite is the traditional mixed nuts mooncake, which is packed with walnuts, almonds, sesame seeds, melon seeds and peanuts along with candied winter melon or kumquat and Jinhua ham for a pop of savoury. This old-fashioned variety is less popular with the younger generation.
Snow skin mooncakes are a lighter, chilled alternative. Their soft, chewy mochi-like ‘skin’ encases a range of fillings, from matcha ganache and taro coconut cream to black sesame mousse, Yuzu curd, mango pomelo, macadamia white chocolate and champagne truffle. The imagination is boundless.
Creative chefs
This year’s mooncake offerings are nothing short of inspired. Think Wagyu beef Wellington mooncakes, bak-kwa (sweet barbecued pork) with assorted nuts, Teh Tarik (Malay ‘pulled’ tea – strong tea with condensed milk) with a chocolate truffle centre and baked custard with bird’s nest. . . well, the list goes on!
Vegan and gluten-free
Mooncake traditions have evolved to accommodate dietary restrictions. Vegan versions omit the egg yolk and lard, instead using plant-based oils and fillings like red bean, lotus seed, or black sesame. Gluten-free mooncakes often feature snow skin as its made with glutinous rice flour. Other creative pastry alternatives use beans and nuts. These thoughtful adaptations ensure that everyone can join in with the celebrations.
A Chinese producer has taken a bold approach to gluten-free mooncakes, crafting the ‘pastry’ from green beans and white kidney bean paste. Their fillings include orange peel with red bean, Yunnan roses paired with blackberries, and black truffle blended into lotus seed paste - an imaginative line-up, though I’m personally not entirely convinced by some of these combinations.
Mooncake box packaging
Mooncake boxes are no longer just square containers; nowadays, they have become visual feasts, with elegant and imaginative designs that are often multifunctional. Double-layered designs with compartments for mooncakes, tea or wine make them ideal gifts, especially striking in rich hues like orange, crimson or jade green. Designers tapping into the luxury market are lining boxes with silk or velvet, adding magnetic closures and gold accents, turning each box into a keepsake. And this year, it’s the handbag-style boxes that are stealing the spotlight: they’re stylish, reusable and dressed to impress!
Nostalgia
I remember receiving mooncakes as a child – heavy tins in red and gold, their lids embossed with phoenixes and peonies. Inside, each cake sat in its own plastic cradle, like a jewel. My grandmother would cut them with a thread, so that the slices were clean and precise and we would eat them slowly, savouring each bite.
Mooncakes are an acquired taste for some. Their richness and sweetness can be intense. However, they are not meant to be devoured; they’re meant to be shared! Sliced into small wedges, passed around the table and paired with oolong or Puerh tea to aid digestion.
So this Mooncake Festival, as you slice into a mooncake, whether it’s filled with lotus, matcha or durian, take a moment. . . And if you’re lucky, you might just catch a glimpse of Chang’e, dancing in the shadows of the moon with jade rabbit by her side!
I hope you’ve enjoyed this month’s column, sharing a glimpse of my heritage and traditions. Until the next time, take care of yourself!
COOKERY CLASSES WITH LILIAN’S KITCHEN
September 20 - Dim Sum
Discover the joy of making dim sum. It’s easier than you think, and produces impressive results with minimal effort.
October 29 - Street Food
Join us to learn how the locals eat and uncover the secrets and tips that street food vendors use to create these vibrant flavours of Asia.
November 13 - Party Food
Create party winners, learn how to plan the perfect menu, and be the most relaxed hostess with the mostess this Christmas!
Private chef Lilian Hiw
Author of Lilian’s Kitchen Home Cooked Food
Visit lilianskitchen.co.uk