Private chef Lilian Hiw, of Lilian’s Kitchen near Bury St Edmunds, has the lowdown on Asian sweet treats

When I first arrived in Bury St Edmunds 34 years ago, I once served green bean soup to a group of English friends. They struggled with the concept and said: “Green beans are for savoury dishes, not desserts!”

Green beans, also called mung beans, are boiled in water until tender. Then sugar and sometimes sago are added to make green bean soup, which is popular in Asia's hot and humid climate for their detoxifying properties and ability to cool the body. The soup can be eaten hot or cold.

Well… we have come a long way since then. Today, many popular Asian desserts and concepts are widely accepted by Western palates and readily available in our shops. In this month’s column, I am delighted to share some of my favourite sweet treats, I hope you enjoy reading about them and perhaps trying some out.

STICKY RICE WITH FRESH MANGO & SALTED COCONUT CREAM

Thailand’s most celebrated dessert, found everywhere from street food stalls, desserts cafés to high-end restaurants. Sticky rice, also known as glutinous rice or sweet rice, is a short-grain rice variety that earned this name because it sticks together readily when cooked. The rice contains no gluten, its ‘glutinous’ name refers to its sticky texture, making it suitable for gluten-free diets.

Traditionally, the rice is soaked and steamed before being gently folded with coconut milk and sugar. It is then covered and left to rest, giving the rice time to absorb the flavour and creamy texture of the coconut milk, while the sugar keeps the rice tender and sweet. It’s so delicious served with ripe fresh mango and a sauce made from coconut milk thickened with cornflour, sugar and a bold pinch of salt. A sprinkle of crispy yellow mung beans or toasted sesame seeds adds some crunch.

Some creative cooks add colour to the rice for a funky presentation. Colours are obtained from natural ingredients: butterfly pea flowers for blue; pandan leaves for fragrance and a vibrant green colour; beetroot or dragonfruit powder for a pretty pinkish-red hue; and turmeric or pumpkin for yellow. Palm sugar turns the rice a light brown colour and adds caramel tones. Black glutinous rice produces a beautiful deep purple colour and adds a nutty chewy texture.

CHINESE TOFFEE APPLES

These are a little different from the toffee apples handed out at bonfire night in November. The apples are cut into chunks, coated in a light batter, deep-fried and tossed in molten caramel with a sprinkle of sesame seeds. Then each piece is plunged into ice-cold water. The caramel instantly hardens to form a crisp, glassy shell around the apples, creating a stunning contrast of texture: warm, tender apple with a cool exterior and a crunchy sugar coating.

I was training as an apprentice at the Oberoi Imperial Hotel in Singapore in 1981. One of the hotel’s food and beverage outlets was a renowned Szechuan restaurant. I will always remember the drama surrounding this dessert. Chef Fu would shout across the kitchen to make sure a front-of-house runner was available before he even started making the caramel. Meanwhile, the restaurant captain would stand by the gueridon trolley with a bowl of ice-cold water with plenty of ice and two serving spoons, next to the table that had ordered the dessert. It was fascinating to watch the captain quickly separate the pieces of fried apple, each coated with molten caramel, dunking them into the ice water and fishing them out at speed before the restaurant’s cold air-conditioning could harden the caramel. He did it all with such grace and flair. I loved my time there.

MOCHI

Perhaps one of the most beloved and recognisable desserts in Asian cuisine, mochi is made from sticky rice - typically mochigome. The rice is steamed then pounded into a soft, smooth, chewy and incredibly stretchy dough. These Japanese rice cakes are traditionally filled with sweet red bean paste. Modern variations now include ice cream mochi, which are now widely available in stores, and fresh fruit mochi using fruits like strawberries, mangoes, or bananas etc. Red bean paste or whipped cream is often wrapped around the fruit before it is tucked inside the elastic mochi dough.

You can’t help but admire the dangerous art of mochitsuki, the time-honoured tradition involving the pounding of the steamed rice to make mochi. One person wields a long-handled wooden mallet, slamming it rhythmically into a deep wooden mortar. A second person uses their bare hands to fold and moisten the steaming dough with water after each strike, to prevent sticking and to produce an even and light dough. It’s truly a ritual of trust and precise timing. It’s common to hear synchronised shouting; each shout marks the beat of the motion, ensuring a harmonious rhythm and keeping everyone safe.

MISO TOFFEE PINEAPPLE

When you next fire up the barbecue, cut up a pineapple. Something magical happens when you cook pineapple: it becomes sweeter and juicier, and the smell just transports you to a happy place.

It’s easy, I promise. Remove the skin and cut into long wedges, as shown in the photo. Lightly brush with a mixture of oil and water. Place the wedges on a low grill and let each side char slowly, flipping them only when you can see beautiful caramelised grill marks. This dish works just as well indoors using a griddle pan, making it a favourite go-to all year round.

In my recipe, I pair the warm fruit with a miso toffee sauce; the miso adds an extra depth of umami flavour. Alternatively, you can replace it with a pinch of salt to balance the sweetness. And if you’re short on time? Simply mix runny honey with a generous pinch of ground cinnamon and lightly brush it over the pineapple once cooked. Try it - it’s luscious, aromatic, and irresistible!

BINGSU

Korea’s iconic shaved ice dessert. Originally, natural ice was shaved by hand using a simple plane, then sweetened with toppings like red beans, chopped fruits, condensed milk and fruit syrup etc.

As creativity and demand evolved, flavours were added to either water or milk to make the ice blocks. The super-fine electric ice shavers produce ice desserts that are feather-light and instantly melt in your mouth. It’s definitely a dessert to try.

ROTI TISSUE

Also known as roti tisu, tissue prata, or even roti helicopter, this is as theatrical as it is delicious. A ball of prata dough is stretched wafer-thin until it is almost translucent, sometimes reaching a length of five feet! It is cooked flat on a sizzling hot plate with a brush of ghee until crispy, and castor sugar is sprinkled all over the pastry for sweetness and crunch before the sheet is rolled into a towering cone. Condensed milk and thin chocolate sauce are drizzled all over the outside.

Break off shards of this crispy and delicate pastry with your hands one snap at a time. It’s messy, joyful and finger-licking good. It’s a show stopper that is much loved in Singapore and Malaysia.

LAVA BUNS

An indulgent steamed bun with a gooey, flowing salted egg yolk custard filling. My son absolutely loves them. The pleasure of biting into the bun and experiencing the burst of flavour and flowing custard is a moment that is beyond description! Head to a good dim sum restaurant for this treat, it’s like liquid sunshine.

Recipes

Full recipes can be found in my cookbook, Lilian’s Kitchen Home Cooked Food, which is available to borrow from the library, or purchase from Waterstones in Bury St Edmunds. Alternatively, you can shop online at lilianskitchen.co.uk.

Mango Sticky Rice – page 124

Miso Toffee Pineapple – page 126

COOKERY CLASSES

NEW Thai - September 13

Dim Sum - September 20

Asian Street Food - October 29

Party Food - November 13

Private chef Lilian Hiw

Author of Lilian’s Kitchen Home Cooked Food

Visit lilianskitchen.co.uk