Jake Bennett-Day, co-owner of Vino Gusto in Bury St Edmunds, visits Westcott Vineyard in Niagara, Canada, and comes away impressed

The wine trade’s favourite aphorism is that to make a small fortune from vinous pursuits, you must start with a large one. I only realised the truth of this saying to its full potential recently on a quick trip across the pond to visit one of our producers, Westcott Vineyards, Niagara, Canada.

On waking up in a four-poster bed to panoramic views of Lake Ontario at Butlers Grant Vineyard, it is apparent that current custodians Carolyn Hurst and Grant Westcott have succeeded in previous careers. Their backgrounds are loosely defined as banking and tech, though it becomes clear throughout our stay that we didn’t have the necessary government clearance to discuss the latter part of Grant’s career. Or, at least, I certainly cannot be specific about it… I’m reminded not to judge the book by its cover. By looking at Grant you would assume his background is more, manual. With hands like clubs and a permanently windswept appearance, you would think he is more suited to a career in mining or cattle farming. Both of which he has turned his hand to in the past. So returning to working with the land was an appealing retirement plan.

From what I can observe, Carolyn had no such plan to retire. As a Niagara native having enjoyed a global career in finance, it is clear that she is the driving force behind the project. She made the first Westcott Vineyards wines herself in 2012 in their equipment barn ‘vins-de-garage’ style, while the permit process for the main winery building was under way.

Things have evolved quite a lot since then. In 2018 they appointed chief winemaker Casey Kulcyk. If making wine is a blend of art and science, then it is clear this young winemaker is a clever appointment. With an unhinged energy, coupled with youthful enthusiasm and encyclopaedic knowledge of winemaking, it’s exciting to taste through the wines under his guidance.

If you’re sceptical of the idea of Canadian wine, I can sympathise with you. Until quite recently, my experience has too been marred by mass produced wines and hybrid grape varieties, designed to perform in the marginal climates that Canada is often associated with. Not to mention the mouth-meltingly sweet ice wines that can succeed here, often made by the same genetically modified varieties.

But look west from us on any globe and you realise that here in Niagara, we’re around 43 degrees north. That is the same latitude band as Provence in France and the Chianti Classico region in Italy, so plenty of warmth here to ripen grape varieties to their full potential. Though vintage variations are indeed apparent. At Westcott, on the shores of the cooling Lake Ontario, the focus is very narrow. Cool climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the varieties very much at home here, though with the purchase of Butlers Grant Vineyard in 2018, Westcott also inherited production of Cabernet Franc and Riesling.

Grant and Carolyn are currently in the process of readjusting the vineyard as they think some things were planted in the wrong place. “Vineyard management is specific to each variety,” says Carolyn – an opinion echoed by Grant in our rambling tour of their vineyards early the next morning.

Moving on to tasting at lunch, and I cannot help but notice that Grant hasn’t taken part in any tasting up until now. I discreetly inquire as to the reason, and he subtly acknowledges that he ‘used up his share a long time ago’. I’m initially stunned that the custodian of this wonderful winery has never tasted the product. But over the coming days I was more impressed by his thoroughgoing understanding of the product from the perspective of a viticulturist and enthusiast.

So, if you’re looking to experiment with a wine or region that you are unfamiliar with this ‘try January’, I urge you to explore wines from the Niagara Bench in Canada. Westcott Vineyards are among a small group of pioneering, quality focused producers and their wines are a brilliant representation of what the region is doing best.

Jake Bennett-Day is co-owner and director of Vino Gusto wine shop, 27 Hatter Street, Bury St Edmunds IP33 1NE

Call 01284 771831

See vinogusto.co.uk