Jake Bennett-Day, co-owner of Vino Gusto, in Bury St Edmunds, outlines the quintessential British quirkiness around the drinking of Port
At Vino Towers, it’s nothing short of a tragedy to end a wine tasting with anything but lusciously sweet, fortified wine. Never mind the time of year, there should always be space for a luxurious digestif of say, Rutherglen Muscat, Pedro Ximénez Sherry, or Port. Supposedly it’s called a digestif as it was traditionally believed to aid digestion. Unsurprisingly, there is no strong evidence to support the theory, but it’s a compelling excuse for just one more before carriages. . .
Of all the delicious, fortified options available, there is none more synonymous with us Brits than Port. Whether toasting the King (classically, from a seated position - as is the tradition in the Navy) or for simply soaking the gullet between mouthfuls of Stilton, it is quintessentially British.
In fact, when the style was first enjoyed on our island in the 17th century, us Brits enjoyed the sweet, oaky, fortified nature of the wine so much that we lent more than just a hand in perfecting the production process. Could you guess that by the name of some of the most famous Port Houses? Croft, Taylor, Graham, etc. . . In 1703, the Methuen Treaty reduced taxation on Portuguese wines, making Port an even more popular UK import.
Of course, it isn’t just the production process that was influenced by the British, we also figured out how to drink it; with a great deal of pretension and pomp, naturally.
If you have ever been privy to a good bottle of Port, vintage or otherwise, it will likely have been decanted. This is a lovely thing to do for a couple of reasons. Very importantly, decanting (either skilfully or through muslin cloth -either are perfectly acceptable methods) separates the naturally formed sediment from the liquid so that it doesn’t end up in your glass. This is very common in Vintage Port, and the volume of sediment thrown from the wine will generally increase with age. Secondly, a bit of time in the decanter will let the wine breathe. A subtle bit of oxygen can often improve a wine by helping the aromas jump out of the glass and soften the harshness of the tannins and alcohol.
So, here are the rules for enjoying a glass (yes, really):
One must not simply grab the decanter from the table and pour oneself a glass. Tradition dictates that the Port decanter should be placed on the table to the right of the host or hostess. It is then passed around the table to the left, moving clockwise until it comes to rest at its starting point. It should otherwise not touch the table.
Port is only ever passed to the left. There are a couple of theories as to why, but I subscribe to the most ludicrous supposition that it would keep one’s sword arm free, should a lairy after-dinner disagreement require settling by way of jousting. Possibly a more sensible theory is that in the Royal Navy, the rule was ‘port to port’, ie ‘all the way around’.
Naturally, as the decanter circles the table, it will be delayed should one of the diners be engrossed in conversation or otherwise not paying close enough attention. Etiquette prevents one from simply reaching across the table and continuing to pass the Port along. Instead, it is more polite to ask the delayed diner, “Do you know the Bishop of Norwich?”.
Only those with the highest standard of etiquette would know that this is a polite plea for the decanter to hurry around the table. In the likely instance that the delayed party confesses that one does not know The Bishop, it is most polite to answer, “Awfully nice fellow, but never passes the port!”. A sure, subtle way to reinstate the circulation of the Port.
The story goes that Bishop Henry Bathurst of Norwich in his old age had a reputation for unwittingly halting the decanter’s movement by falling asleep at the table. It is not clear whether his frequent nodding off was a result of his old age, or indeed his greedy consumption. He would invertedly become the go-to reference for sluggish port rounds in years to come, adding another layer to the many obscure traditions that surround this glorious, traditional fortified wine.
Jake Bennett-Day is co-owner and director of Vino Gusto wine shop, 27 Hatter Street, Bury St Edmunds IP33 1NE
Call 01284 771831
